Wax figures showcase the ancient method of artificially cultivating xianggu, or shiitake, at a museum in Qingyuan county, Lishui city, Zhejiang province. XU LIN/CHINA DAILY

Wu Xinglong, 67, skillfully wields an axe to chop small incisions into a long log, in a forest in Qingyuan county, Lishui city, Zhejiang province.

He is practicing an old technique to artificially cultivate xianggu (an edible fungus), which is also called shiitake — these small cuts provide the best environment for spores to thrive and grow.

Over 800 years ago, Wu Sangong, a local resident, invented the traditional method, and the cultivation of shiitake in Qingyuan has flourished ever since, becoming the main livelihood of local farmers.

"The shiitake possesses good quality, boasting a bright color, substantial size and abundant nutritional value," Wu says.

In 2002, the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations launched its Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems list. Last year, Qingyuan Forest-Mushroom Co-culture System, which is based on mushroom cultivation through rational use of forest resources, was designated as a GIAHS site.

So far, there are 78 designated GIAHS sites in 24 countries, including 19 in China. Those in China, Japan and South Korea account for over half of the global total.

In 2013, the East Asia Research Association for Agricultural Heritage Systems, which aims to boost research cooperation on agricultural heritage systems among China, Japan and South Korea, was established.

The 7th ERAHS Conference, which was supposed to be held in 2020 but was postponed due to the COVID-19 pandemic, was recently held in Qingyuan county, drawing about 160 scholars and experts from China, Japan and South Korea.

"The conference has witnessed a surge in enthusiastic participation, highlighting the growing interest and dedication toward agricultural heritage. It has promoted protection of agricultural heritage and enhanced awareness among those who were involved in its management and the local community," says Min Qingwen, executive chairman of ERAHS.

"The research results and protection experience of the three countries can be used by others for reference in agricultural heritage."

Kazuhiko Takeuchi, a consultant to ERAHS, recalls that the formation of ERAHS stems from the shared passion among agricultural heritage experts in these three countries and their recognition of the numerous cultural similarities they share.

"Over the past decade, experts from the three countries have forged strong relationships and engaged in cooperative endeavors, resulting in significant progress for the industry as a whole," he says.

Qingyuan county's forest mushroom cultivation is a pillar industry that offers farmers an important source of livelihood. [Photo by Xu Lin/China Daily]

Japan is providing financial and technical assistance to developing countries across Asia, Africa, and Latin America to aid them in submitting applications for GIAHS accreditation, according to Takeuchi.

"It's important to pursue common development. This support aims to expand the reach and influence of agricultural heritage beyond the borders of the three participating nations," Takeuchi says.

To ensure the sustainability of traditional skills associated with agricultural heritage, he proposes measures to increase manufacturing scale and the use of modern techniques, while prioritizing environmental protection, for example, converting homemade cheese workshops into corporations.

"Nowadays, the ERAHS has evolved into an esteemed academic platform, facilitating communication among experts from the three countries. The conference now encompasses a wider range of topics than before," says Yoon Won-keun, co-chairman of ERAHS.

"It's essential for us to summarize our previous achievements and develop new strategies for future growth."

He says that a dynamic conservation approach should strike a balance between conservation, adaptation and socioeconomic development. Sustainable development for agricultural heritage entails simultaneous advancement and protection of these valuable resources.

He highlights that, while preserving agricultural heritage, there is the possibility of decreased productivity and increased costs associated with traditional protection methods. Local farmers may have concerns about these factors and become reluctant to support such initiatives.

"In our pursuit of preserving agricultural heritage, we should also explore methods to increase the incomes of farmers, who can benefit from it. I've learned that China has already implemented many such practices that combine productivity with protection."