A wind stove banquet is held in Suichang county, Lishui, Zhejiang province. [Photo/Lishui Daily]

Hot pot is a Spring Festival staple. In Suichang county, Lishui, Zhejiang province, there is a special type of hot pot called wind stove.

Unlike common hot pots, the ingredients must be stir-fried first and then simmered in a wind stove heated with charcoal.

This way of heating charcoal to braise food in the wind stove is referred to as the "wind stove banquet" by Suichang people, and it represents their memories of the New Year from generations before.

"In Suichang, wind stove is not only for banquets, but is also eaten at home," explained Luo Zhaorong, a researcher of cultural relics and museum in Suichang.

In fact, the tradition of cooking food with a wind stove is very common in the countryside of Jiangnan — the southern region of the Yangtze River's lower reaches. Suichang wind stove is called "triangle wind stove" because of its unique appearance with three supporting feet at the bottom and three angles at the top.

It is because of this seemingly ordinary stove that Suichang cuisine has begun gaining popularity in recent years. A wind stove made of regular clay and red clay is good for heat conduction and preservation. Heated by charcoal, the ingredients can be hot but not dry. These advantages add the scent of charcoal to the food's smell.

A wind stove dish in Suichang county, Lishui, Zhejiang province. [Photo/Lishui Daily]

Luo said, "For Suichang people, wind stove dishes needn't be so exquisite, but they must be seasonal and fresh." Cooks usually only use seasonal ingredients, such as wild mushrooms and bamboo shoots, hand-ground tofu, and seasonal vegetables.

Today, Suichang wind stove has spread to other areas in Lishui and even other cities in Zhejiang.